Auto electrical · tested before anything is sold
Auto electrical faults fixed at your driveway, by a mechanic who tests first.
Most auto electrical call-outs come down to a battery, an alternator or a starter, and the hard part is proving which one. I'm Jackson, a licensed mechanic based in Guildford. I come to the car with a load tester, a meter and a scan tool, prove what the fault is, and fix it on the spot where the engine bay allows. You see the reading before you pay for the part.
Western Sydney same day, the Hills and Inner West 20 to 30 minutes off-peak, the rest of Sydney too. Any hour I'm not already on a job. Price for your car on the phone before I leave.
Real Google reviews
What Sydney says
Car wouldn’t start in Merrylands and I was stuck. Jackson arrived quickly and got me back on the road straight away. Best mobile battery service around this area.
Battery died at the servo in Parramatta, Jackson answered straight away and came out fast. New battery fitted on the spot, no stress.
Booked Jackson after my car struggled to start two mornings in a row. He came to my house in Granville, tested the old battery and fitted a new one before it left me stranded.
Jackson came and replaced my battery in Guildford for a great price, he was professional and great.
What I fix at your place
The electrical jobs that fit in a van
Every one starts with a test, not a parts bill. If the test says it's something else, I tell you that at the car and quote the real job.
Battery dead, dying, or not holding charge
Load-tested in front of you. If it's done, I carry the right one for most cars and fit it on the spot, any hour. Euro cars get the new battery registered to the car so the charging system treats it properly.
Alternator not charging
Battery light on, lights dimming at idle, a new battery that went flat again. I read the charging voltage with the engine running and show you the number before anyone buys an alternator.
Starter motor, cables and earths
Lights bright, one click, no crank. I check the battery under load, then the main cable and earth strap, then voltage at the starter. The cheap fix gets ruled out before the dear one.
Battery goes flat overnight
Something is drawing current with the car off. I measure the draw, then pull fuses one circuit at a time until it drops, and tell you which circuit it is. A new battery does nothing for this fault.
Warning lights and fault codes
I plug a scan tool into the car and read the fault codes, not just the engine light. Stored codes, cleared codes, live data. You get told what the car is saying, not what someone guessed.
Jump start, then the real test
A jump gets you going. The test tells you whether you'll be stuck again tomorrow. I do both on the one visit, and if the battery has had it I can fit one there and then.
Before you pay for anything
The order I test in, every time
Battery, charging, starting, then the scan tool. Cheapest and most common first.
Battery under load
A battery can read 12 volts and still collapse the moment the starter asks for current. The load tester shows what it actually has left. This is the answer more than half the time.
Charging voltage, engine running
A healthy alternator holds roughly 13.8 to 14.4 volts at idle. Under 13.5 it isn't charging. Over 15 it's cooking the battery. The number is on my meter and you can read it with me.
Starter circuit, cables and earths
Voltage at the starter when the key turns. Voltage there and no crank means the starter. No voltage means a cable, an earth, a relay or the immobiliser, and each of those is a different price.
Scan the car
Fault codes and live data from the engine, body and immobiliser. A code that's been cleared leaves a trace, and live data tells a different story to the dashboard.
Being straight with you
What I don't do in a driveway
Accessory installs like dash cams, light bars and towbar wiring, full rewires, and anything that needs the dashboard out or the car on a hoist for hours. Ring and describe it. If it isn't a job for me I'll say so on the phone instead of charging you to drive out and say it in person.
Looking for a mobile auto electrician in Sydney?
The jobs above are the jobs people ring one for
Flat battery, battery light, one click and nothing, a battery that goes flat every few days, a warning light nobody can explain. That's most of what I see. I prove the fault with a meter or a scan tool before you pay for a part. If the job turns out to be wiring or an install, I tell you that on the phone.
Where I go
Western Sydney, the Hills, the Inner West, and the rest of Sydney
Times are Google Maps off-peak from my base in Guildford, so add some in peak hour. Batteries and electrical jobs any hour I'm not already on a job.
Home patch, same as the batteries:
Further out, ring first and I'll give you a time:
The quickest way to a price
Tell me what it's doing
Ring and tell me the car, the suburb and what it's doing. You get what it sounds like and the price for your car before I leave. Can't talk right now? Text me those three things and I'll text you back.
Any hour I'm not on a job. Same price day or night.
Straight answers
Questions I get about electrical faults
Is it the battery or the alternator?
I put a new battery in and it's flat again. Why?
Can you find what's draining the battery?
Do you register batteries on BMW, Mercedes, Audi and VW?
Will the scan tool read my car?
Do you do it at night?
What does it cost?
Battery light on, one click, or flat again?
Ring me, tell me the car and what it's doing, and I'll tell you what it sounds like and what it costs for your car. Ringing to ask costs nothing.