Buying used · I meet you at the seller's

Before you hand over the money, let a mechanic look at it.

A used car looks fine in a driveway. The things that cost you money are under it, inside the computer, and on the road at 80. I meet you at the seller's address, go over it properly, drive it, and give you a straight answer. Buy it, knock the price down, or walk away.

Any hour I'm not already on a job, across Sydney. Price for your car on the phone before I leave. Can't talk? Text me.

The checklist

What I'm looking for

Accident repair the seller forgot to mention: paint texture, panel gaps, overspray, bent chassis rails
Fault codes that have been cleared to hide a problem, and the live data that shows it anyway
Oil leaks, coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, and a head gasket about to cost you thousands
Rust where it matters, under the car and in the sills, not just the pretty bits
Brakes, tyres, suspension and steering, and how much life is actually left in them
Service history that matches the odometer, and an odometer that matches the wear

Step by step

How the inspection goes

Step 1

Walk around and underneath

Body, paint, glass, tyres, then under the car with a torch and a long look at the sills, rails, suspension arms and exhaust. This is where the deal-breakers hide.

Step 2

Engine bay and scan

Fluids, belts, hoses, leaks, mounts. Then I plug in and read the stored codes, cleared codes, and live data that tells a different story to the dashboard.

Step 3

Road test

Cold start, then a drive that covers idle, a hard pull, braking, bumps and a bit of speed. Gearbox behaviour, noises, pulling, vibration. Twenty minutes on the road tells you more than an hour in a driveway.

At the seller's

What you get

You get a straight rundown at the car, in front of the seller if you want. What's good, what needs doing soon, what it'll roughly cost, and whether I'd buy it at the price they're asking. If there's a fault that gives you leverage, I'll tell you what it is so you can use it.

Not a repair. I don't fix anything at the seller's. If you buy it and want the work done, that's a separate job and I quote it like any other.

When you ring

Tell me these three things

The car, make and model and year. Where it is and when you can get there with the seller. And the asking price, so I can tell you whether the condition matches the money. Private sale or dealer, I'll do either, and I'll tell you on the phone if it's a car I'd be cautious about before you waste a trip.

The quickest way to a price

Buying a car? Ring me with the seller's suburb

Ring with the car, the seller's suburb and when you can meet them. You get the price and a time before I leave. Can't talk right now? Text me those three things and I'll text you back.

Call Jackson now0468 098 696

Any hour I'm not on a job. Same price day or night.

Straight answers

Questions I get about this job

Will the seller let you do it?

A genuine seller has no problem with it. One who refuses an inspection has just told you everything you need to know. Save the fee and walk.

How long does it take?

About an hour at the car plus the road test. Book a time with the seller that gives us that.

Can you check the service history?

I read what they show me and I check whether the car's wear matches it. I can't pull records from a dealer, but I can tell you if the story doesn't add up.

Do you come to the seller wherever they are?

Anywhere in Sydney, by booking. An inspection is planned, not an emergency, so I go to the seller's address, North Shore, Eastern Suburbs, wherever the car is, and the price on the phone covers the drive. Outside Sydney, ring me and I'll tell you whether it's worth the trip.

What does it cost?

The inspection has one price and I tell you on the phone. It's a small fraction of what a bad buy costs you.

Found a car you like?

Ring me with the make and model and the seller's suburb, and I'll give you the price and a time.

Call Jackson now Brakes need doing?

Any hour, any day0468 098 696Jackson answers, not a call centre